An ode to our stay in Blue Fox Bay (Afognak Island Alaska)

Based on the idea of Alice in Wonderland:

Our first encounter with the mythical surroundings of Blue Fox Bay has been planned for in the Autumn. The bay lies north of the Kodiak archipelago. The Kingfisher Bush Hawks are loaded with food, clothing, photo gear, and a Zodgeariac boat.  The weather is good. The dropping, close by the cabin, on the south beach of the bay, goes without a hitch. Glenn, our pilot, says “It is a very quiet and mysterious land. If you really want to see bears, you won’t find them here straight away.” They are very shy and the landscape is shut off, very different than what you are use to.

The next day we get into our Zodiac to explore the coast………

Earlier on in the morning we were treated to a beautiful sunrise and now, full of expectations, we are sailing towards the bay for yet another treat.

A queen jellyfish swims in the middle of the bay in front of our boat. Her white veil-like tentacles draw us like a magnet towards a bright cove in the cordoned off coast.  Magnificent green colours flash along the edge of the forest that lures us to the edge.

The sea otter that is enjoying himself cracking open a shellfish close to the coast turns around and looks at us in surprise.

“I wouldn’t do it.  Don’t go in through the port of temptation.  Moss men live behind the port; they will change you into moss.  My brother went  ashore once to have a look. Later on a moss otter was seen drifting through the bay.  I didn’t notice right away, but it was my brother. But it’s your decision. Humans don’t listen to the otters. So I wouldn’t do it, but go anyway”.

We let the boat drift along the coast. Just in front of the boat the eyes of a sea urchin pierce the surface, while at the same time they are being protected by the long fingers of Mrs Pink Star. Her fingers close in round the sea urchin and she is just about to close them, when she calls out: “They are not allowed to see you”, “if they see you they will see to it that your images are projected through the water, so that the moss otters are ready for your arrival and then they will multiply immediately”. Then you will be turned into moss”.

The port is laughing at us with its come hither smile.  The old bald tree trunks glisten at the edge of the entrance. “Come in. As you can see, we are very old and we are still standing proud!  We have not been turned into moss”.

The bald trunks show off their shining barks in a beautiful wreath of light rays, so that it is impossible for us to resist the temptation and so ……… we enter Wonderland.

The peaceful flood waters lie high in the forest and overflow the banks, so that the roots of the Maple Leaves and Sitka Spruce bushes stand in the water.  Slowly we drift up stream through a tunnel of branches.  In the distance we hear the sound of splashing water and notice that all around our boat the salmon are keeping us company.

The moss covered tentacles of the impenetrable forest hang low over the water and the silver white of the water rushes towards us. The current is friendly and invites us to go deeper into the forest, in search of the great Wonderland. Then the current gradually becomes stronger and suddenly a large mass of water rushes passed us. “Go away, get out of the water” the current yells, because we will spread you out all over the sea.

Shocked, we jump ashore, just before the angry current drags us along.

“Is this the River of Tears out of Alice in Wonderland” we ask ourselves?

In a deep green pool along the edge of the angry waters the salmon and the trout are muttering to us.  “Don’t go any further. We tried it and we didn’t succeed either.  Ah yes, humans don’t listen to us anyway, so go ahead”.

We trudge further through the wild bushes, on to the finishing point by the Wonder Lake. The old Sitka sadly stands along the edge mumbling away. “Once I was a beautiful tree. Then they turned me into moss, and they don’t even bury you. They let you stay in this mossy state for centuries until you’re completely engulfed in moss. Don’t go any further! Ah yes, humans don’t listen to trees, so go ahead”.

The mossy coat of fur engulfs everything. A small twig suddenly turns into a giant paw of a giant spider or of a giant shrimp with big green eyes.

Suddenly, a female bear is standing straight up in the forest.  Her head and body completely covered in a mossy gold greenish eiderdown. “Yes humans, I have been hibernating here now for five years. I am glad that you came along. I feel like something tasty to eat. If you would just cut off the moss then I can move again and turn my attention to you”.

“No little bear, we will leave you standing. You are much safer as you are”.

But all these encounters have made us quite nervous.

But Wonderland still draws us.

Suddenly, a big mossy garland falls round Rika’s neck. The garland is still attached to the branch. We quickly cut it off.

“Don’t do that”, call the moss dinars. “We will not harm you. We only want to be an eiderdown of plump moss”. Rika has to laugh about this, but we don’t trust it and quickly free Rika of the moss dinars garland.

Then the water becomes dark and deathly. The old wise trunk lies horizontally along the waterside.

“I am the tree of wisdom. Vertically and diagonally. As well as horizontally I can think, and for knowledge I have my roots and tentacles. Tell me what you desire”.

“We want to go to Wonderland”, we answered.

“Oh, so. If you go on through the place of the light you will see Wonderland.

I wouldn’t do it, but humans never listen, so go ahead”.

We walk through the port of light and are overloaded with an overwhelming amount of green. But the Maple bushes are full of thorns that keep on gripping on to us and attaching themselves to our clothing. They are pricking through our clothing, causing us to become panicky from this unbearable pricking field. The mosses are longingly looking at us as we pass.

After much struggling, the tunnel of light eventually opens and we arrive at the foot of the Wonder Lake. The Wonder Bud Tree speaks of justice here everyday about the comings and goings of Wonder life. We sit for a while mesmerised by the untouched surroundings. “For years now, that’s what I have been doing my best for”, says the Wonder Bud Tree, “and you are the first ones who are allowed to look at it. You’re not allowed to change anything because otherwise my eco will collapse and nothing will remain of the wonder buds. Affix it to your wonder screens and then go home. If you hear the water on your right hand side then left is the exit. You are allowed to travel through the air, if you can fly, but you humans can’t do that. You may go underground, but then you will be stifled. Take the road which I have pointed out to you.  Follow my rear branch for three hundred grass splinters to the end without changing direction and then jump down into the big sea.  A whale is swimming there and he will be there for you”.

Then the Wonder Bud Tree falls silent and we look on breathlessly. The water is still vibrating from the nuts of the tree root. We are very impressed and take a while before we leave. Just as the Wonder Bud tree said, we arrive, after three hundred grass splinters, on a very steep slope by the sea. We jump down. We land on the back of a big whale that brings us directly to our boat. Luckily our boat is still lying in the bay estuary. We say “thank you very much” to the whale. “Don’t mention it” and he waves with his tail just before he completely submerges.

We have seen Wonderland, felt it and tasted it and via the photo’s you too can enjoy it.

Harry en Rika Houthuijsen.